Projectcoördinator Depots. Tsering Bhote, who had climbed more slowly than fellow rescuer "Big" Pasang Bhote, had not yet reached the top of the Bottleneck. Overall, much of the truth of the story came down to Rooijen's and Gyalje’s versions of events. He is joined in his analysis by writer Michael Kodas. Graham Bowley, in his book No Way Down (2010),[22] is unable to refute the evidence presented by van Rooijen but still deems the photos inconclusive at best. Minutes after "Big" Pasang Bhote had radioed in the news that he had found his relative Jumik Bhote and two Koreans, another avalanche or serac fall struck. The months preceding the summit push were used for acclimatization and preparing for the camps higher on the mountain, the highest of them, Camp IV, at 7,800–7,900 m (25,600–25,900 ft) above sea level. K2 is part of the Karakoram range, not far from the Himalayas, and is located on the border between the Pakistani Gilgit-Baltistan region, and China's Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang Autonomous Region. Confortola claims McDonnell, after working with Confortola for at least 1.5 hours, suddenly climbed back up the mountain, leaving him with the three stranded men. Bedrijfsleider Realisatie. Extra 5% off coupon towards your next purchase when you join. Sträng then decided to descend without Mandić's body. Confortola says he was able to radio Tsering Bhote and "Big" Pasang Bhote, who were on their way up to rescue the men. Wij willen ze hartelijk bedanken voor de goede zorgen voor Bengie en Boots. Rooijen disputed this claim. Again, van Rooijen provides photographic evidence: what looks like a climber can be seen above the serac field on the morning of 2 August. On the descent, the Spaniard Alberto Zerain, who had topped out first and alone at 3:00 p.m., managed to pass through the Bottleneck without trouble. Nessa and Skog continued descending without the fixed lines, and managed to reach Camp IV during the night.[15]. Swede Fredrik Sträng stated he took command of the recovery operation. Confortola and McDonnell reached the Korean group later in the morning and worked for several hours trying to free them. Sherpa Chhiring Dorje also descended the Bottleneck with "Little" Pasang Lama (who had been stranded without an ice axe) secured to his harness. Wilco van Rooijen was bijna doodgegaan op de K2, het weer was omgeslagen, hij was verdwaald en bivakkeerde drie dagen in zijn eentje boven de 8.000 meter, zonder water en extra zuurstof. Confortola claimed that during the bivouac, he heard screams and saw headlights disappear below him after a roaring sound came from the serac field. Wilco van Rooijen sagte nach dem Unglück: „Als wir uns auf den Weg zum Gipfel machten, ging auf einmal alles schief.“ Zwei Mitglieder der Wegbaugruppe, die gegen Mitternacht vorausklettern sollten, um die Fixseile durch die Flaschenhals-Rinne und die folgende Traverse zu montieren, zeigten Anzeichen von Höhenkrankheit und mussten absteigen. At the end of July, ten different groups were waiting for good weather, some of them having waited for almost two months. Do you art? By 8:30 p.m., darkness had enveloped K2. Centraal staat de vraag: hoe kunnen we Nederland verduurzamen, met een centrale rol voor de bouw en vastgoed. Op 2 augustus 2008 nadat de top was bereikt zonder extra zuurstof werd Van Rooijen na een ongeval op de K2 vermist, maar keerde na 3 dagen levend terug uit de 'zone des doods'. [citation needed] The existence of multiple plausible scenarios underscores the uncertainty, even among eyewitnesses, pertaining to the course of events on K2 that day. Baig finally let go of the rope, but to Sträng's and the others' surprise, he did not try to stop his slide by using the self-arrest technique, which has about a 50% chance of arresting a fall, and Baig fell to his death. [24] Wilco van Rooijen is one of only a few people to survive two days above the 8000m "Death Zone". Chris Klinke pushed on for a few more hours before abandoning the ascent,[9] as did Jelle Staleman of the Norit team, who was also suffering frozen feet. [4] Among the dead were people from France, Ireland, Korea, Nepal, Norway, Pakistan, and Serbia. The men had climbed up around midnight without food or oxygen, and found Go Mi-Young stranded somewhere in the Bottleneck, unsure of which route she had to take. Many of the things he said were later disproved. Hij bereikte op eigen kracht zowel de geografische Noord- als de Zuidpool. The series of deaths, over the course of the Friday ascent and Saturday descent, was the worst single accident in the history of K2 mountaineering. Na zijn havo-eindexamen studeerde hij elektrotechniek aan de HTS en twee jaar aan de TU van Eindhoven. Van Rooijen decided to continue descending.[19]. [12], Just after noon, Tsering Bhote and "Big" Pasang Bhote had reached the bottom of the Bottleneck. [citation needed], With the end of July approaching and weather forecasts indicating improving weather, several groups had arrived at Camp IV on Thursday, 31 July in preparation to try the summit as soon as weather would permit. Filter. It swept away the four men. Confortola assumed McDonnell had succumbed to high-altitude sickness and was growing delusional, believing he had to climb back up. [28][29], The Pakistani military started a rescue operation early on 4 August 2008, using two helicopters. "You kick each foot in solid, plant the axe, then tell the other guy to kick with his own feet and punch holds with his hands. Van Rooijen, in his book Surviving K2, supports the theory that Karim bivouacked even higher on the mountain than van Rooijen, Confortola, and McDonnell. His experience as the only person in the collected teams to have previously summited K2,[7] and his unofficial leadership of the HAPs and Sherpas, was sorely missed. "[18], Two members of the South Korean expedition, Kim Jae-soo and Go Mi-Young, also managed to navigate the Bottleneck in the dark, although the latter had to be helped by two Sherpas from the Korean B team, Chhiring Bhote and "Big" Pasang Bhote, who were supposed to summit the next morning. It is unclear whether or not the men were the victims of a second serac fall, an avalanche, or perhaps a regular fall leaving them tangled in the ropes. The men were tangled in several ropes and had clearly been hanging there, some upside down and bloodied, through the night, but all alive. Still, if Pasang had come off [i.e., 'fallen'], he probably would have taken Chhiring with him. Some confusion followed and ropes may have been left behind or placed too far down the slope from the Bottleneck. The death toll had now risen to 11. [14] The Serbian group aborted, wrapped Mandić's body in a flag and fastened him to the mountain, and started to descend. Talk about selfless! The book was launched in McDonnell's hometown of Kilcornan, County Limerick, on Friday 30 March with most of the town in attendance. Odłączył się od partnerów i zaczął schodzić samotnie, mimo że nie znał drogi i miał objawy ślepoty śnieżnej. He and D’Aubarede must have gotten separated in the dark, as van de Gevel encountered only D’Aubarede above the Bottleneck. Uiteindelijk moest hij hierdoor al zijn tenen missen. Wilco van Rooijen. [44], According to AdventureStats, the last 17 fatalities on K2 have all occurred in, around, or above the Bottleneck, once again proving the deadly nature of K2's upper slopes. At this point, Eric Meyer and Fredrik Sträng of the American group decided to abort the attempt and return to Camp IV,[8] due to both the high probability of reaching the summit late, and the high exposure to ice fall in the crowded Bottleneck. In his initial interview at Milan Airport, he stated that he had freed the Korean climbers. Bekijken Offerte. Hij beklom een groot aantal Noordwanden in de Alpen en bergen wereldwijd. He might even have actually caused one of the serac falls. [42], Mountaineering expedition disaster on K2 in Pakistan, Learn how and when to remove this template message, Death toll rises to eleven in K2 mountain avalanche, "K2 2008: List of climbers who passed away released", "Text of border agreement between China and Pakistan", "The Big Question: What makes K2 the most perilous challenge a mountaineer can face? Van Rooijen heeft zijn eigen onderneming, waarmee hij beklimmingen/expedities organiseert en lezingen geeft. This climber was probably D'Aubarede, whom van de Gevel had passed just above the Bottleneck in the dark. D'Aubarede had run out of bottled oxygen hours before, and when van de Gevel had passed him, he had looked tired and insisted van de Gevel descend before him. The Norit team included a full climbing member named Pemba Gyalje, a Sherpa mountaineer who years earlier had been a support climber on Mount Everest. His vision was deteriorating and he feared he was going snow blind, requiring him to get off the mountain quickly. Karim was last seen returning from the summit with D’Aubarede, in the later hours of 1 August. In his book Surviving K2, van Rooijen provides some photographs he believes support these claims. Chunks of ice lay scattered around the route, and the mountaineers above were stranded in darkness in the death zone above 8,000 m (26,000 ft). E-mail. Algemeen directeur. Part of the reason Confortola's version of events were believed early on was because he was first to speak to the media. [citation needed], Meanwhile, team Norit's Cas van de Gevel and the French team's Hugues D’Aubarede had each decided to manoeuvre the Bottleneck in the dark. Wilco van Rooijen (Utrecht, 25 november 1967) is een bergbeklimmer, die in de Nederlandse klimsport vooral bekend is door de ontberingen, die hij in 2008 op de K2 heeft doorstaan. Wilco van Rooijen podjął szaloną decyzję. [27] Confortola was evacuated by helicopter the following day. Coordinates: .mw-parser-output .geo-default,.mw-parser-output .geo-dms,.mw-parser-output .geo-dec{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .geo-nondefault,.mw-parser-output .geo-multi-punct{display:none}.mw-parser-output .longitude,.mw-parser-output .latitude{white-space:nowrap}35°52′57″N 76°30′48″E / 35.8825°N 76.5133°E / 35.8825; 76.5133. Some sources mention only two Koreans and Jumik Bhote, while other reports indicate three remaining Koreans (one near death). The main problem was reported as an ice avalanche occurring at an area known as "the Bottleneck", which destroyed many of the climbers' rope lines. He had climbed down a new route to the left of the Česen route, bypassing Camp IV. After investigating them, he concluded these were McDonnell's remains. It was later determined that McDonnell had freed them. Ze zijn gecremeerd op 11 en 17 April door SHCN. He then could have returned to the three men and may have spent another several hours alone helping free the men from the ropes. [12] She was still clipped to the rope and was merely knocked over. [7] A few independent climbers (a solo Spaniard and an Italian pair) would also push for the summit in the morning. Meanwhile, van Rooijen was making his way down the mountain alone. He also radioed that a fourth climber, descending behind the two Koreans and the two Sherpas, had been swept away by a serac fall and was dead. Wilco van Rooijen (Utrecht, 25 november 1967) is een bergbeklimmer, die in de Nederlandse klimsport vooral bekend is door de ontberingen, die hij in 2008 op de K2 heeft doorstaan. [citation needed]. Op die manier zorgen wij er samen met jou voor dat jouw interieur een uniek en persoonlijk karakter krijgt. "I can just about imagine how you might pull it off," writes Ed Viesturs in K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain. Confortola’s statements were conflicting at best. It is unclear why he did not try to stop his slide. Please check your credentials and try again. Van Rooijen, who had seen Confortola and McDonnell helping the stranded Koreans and their guide from below, thinks McDonnell did not climb back up the mountain, but rather climbed up to the highest anchor supporting the three stranded men to try to transfer the load. When the climbing groups started upward at 3:00 a.m., they found that the HAPs and Sherpas had started planting lines right above Camp IV, where they were not needed, up into the Bottleneck, and then had run out of rope for the traverse just above the Bottleneck. They had found no pulse and, judging by the severity of Mandić's injuries, pronounced him dead. [1] Nicholas Rice, a climber with the French team who had been delayed, also aborted at this point.[10]. Jan Grisnich. Deze achternamen hebben de karakteristiek, dat de voorouders van bijna al deze families al vóór 1800 in Nederland woonachtig waren. You art!. As a result of the serac's fall, the descent through the Bottleneck became more technical. [10][11], At 8:00 a.m., climbers were finally advancing through the Bottleneck. Een event waar het draait om trends, nieuwe inzichten en innovaties. The 2008 K2 disaster occurred on 1 August 2008, when 11 mountaineers from international expeditions died on K2, the second-highest mountain on Earth. This section would prove especially deadly on this day. At that point, eight people were still above the Bottleneck. They guided her down safely. In the photos taken by Gyalje, individual climbers cannot be made out. Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri i Juan Pablo Mohr zostali oficjalnie uznani za zmarłych. Tsering Bhote, from his position at the base of the Bottleneck, has also claimed to have seen a serac fall strike the rescue party as they were descending near the top of the Bottleneck.[21]. [2] Van Rooijen daalde met zijn teammaat Cas van de Gevel op eigen kracht terug naar het basiskamp alwaar derdegraads bevriezingsverschijnselen aan zijn tenen werden geconstateerd. Een andere karakteristiek is helaas, dat grote delen van deze families in de jaren 1940 -1945 zijn vermoord. In the rubble of this avalanche, he spotted the remains of one climber. Mendy Drabbe. Van Rooijen disputes Confortola's version of the events. Some climbers at Camp IV claimed they could see he was still moving after the fall and sent a group to help recover Mandić. On Saturday, Van de Gevel and Gyalje made contact with van Rooijen on the Česen route early in the morning; the three managed to get down to the base camp at 10:00 p.m.[25] The next day, Van de Gevel and van Rooijen were evacuated from base camp by helicopter, to Skardu. Byłem jak zwierzę. In fact, some of the figures assumed to be climbers could very well be rocks, and marks that look like trails are everywhere on the mountain. Deze pagina is voor het laatst bewerkt op 15 mrt 2021 om 22:48. Eerder raakte hij in 1995 ook op de K2 zwaargewond, hij werd toen door steenslag geraakt. Expeditieleider, bergbeklimmer, (duurzaam)ondernemer. Hieronder een selectie van door Van Rooijen beklommen bergen. Members of the Norwegian group – including Lars Flatø Nessa and Skog, who had both summitted two hours after Zerain – had almost navigated the traverse leading to the Bottleneck, when a serac (a large block of glacial ice) broke off from above. This forced the climbers to take the rope from the lower portion of the route and use it to prepare the lines above the Bottleneck, causing a dangerous unplanned delay in the climb schedule. It could be that this was the event Confortola had witnessed during the bivouac the previous night, while it could also be that this was the second object Tsering Bhote and "Big" Pasang Bhote saw falling off the mountain—there is little direct evidence to clearly confirm either possibility. There was one other climber still unaccounted for: D’Aubarede's HAP, Meherban Karim. – Minąłem trzech wspinaczy z innej ekipy. He claims Jumik Bhote informed him a rescue mission was under way from Camp IV. Failed to sign in! There they found Confortola crawling on his hands and knees. He told McDonnell's family that they had all started together and bivouacked together at the same time. [citation needed]. ROOIJEN van, Wilhelmus Johannes Marie (Wim) *02-02-1930 te Cothen +21-03-2021 te Cothen 91j VONK, Gerard *15-03-1954 te Houten +11-03-2021 te Tiel 66j Overlijdensadvertenties Heraut Van Rooijen had managed several satellite phone calls that may have helped pinpoint his location. [32], One of the three Koreans either died during the incident that caused their original fall and tangled the ropes, or the morning after before the others were freed. According to team Norit's Dutch mountaineer Wilco van Rooijen, panic broke out among the climbers waiting above the Bottleneck. Van Rooijen was found using GPS coordinates sent out by his Thuraya satellite phone when he used it to call his brother. Twee jaar eerder had Van Rooijen ook al een poging gedaan (met paraglider om ervanaf te vliegen), maar hij keerde toen op ruim 8000 m vanwege slecht weer om. In onze showroom ben je van harte welkom om persoonlijk advies te krijgen op het gebied van houten vloeren, tafels, stoelen, stalen deuren & meer. Nederlandse Thesaurus van Auteursnamen Persoon ID: 217651488Virtual International Authority File: 282870901 WorldCat Identities (via VIAF): 282870901, Nederlandse Thesaurus van Auteursnamen Persoon ID, https://nl.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wilco_van_Rooijen&oldid=58514283, Wikipedia:Lokale afbeelding gelijk aan Wikidata, Wikipedia:Pagina's die ISBN magische links gebruiken, Creative Commons Naamsvermelding/Gelijk delen. [4], K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, with a peak elevation of 8,611 metres (28,251 ft). Hij heeft zonder daarbij extra zuurstof te gebruiken, de Mount Everest beklommen. As it fell, it cut all the fixed lines and took with it Skog's husband Rolf Bae, who had abandoned the ascent only 100 m (330 ft) below the summit, telling Nessa to look after his wife, as he waited for her. They had managed to get the Koreans back into at least a comfortable position, though they were still entangled. [20], Confortola stated that some time after he left the three men, an avalanche struck just feet away from him. Others have the number at two Koreans and Jumik Bhote. The description of the climber's red-and-black suit matched McDonnell's, which suggests Confortola was mistaken in identifying the remains in the avalanche as McDonnell's and supports van Rooijen's theory that McDonnell freed the two Koreans and Jumik Bhote, before being killed in a different serac fall. Van de Gevel and Gyalje descended from Camp IV to Camp III after they had heard van Rooijen was still somewhere on the mountain. Early in the morning, above the traverse, van Rooijen gave up the search for the fixed ropes and descended alone. They rescued two injured and frostbitten Dutch climbers from the base camp, located approximately 5,000 metres (16,400 ft) above sea level. Gerlinde bags the first female No-O2 14x8000ers ascent - Max, Vassiliy and Darek on top too", "Death zone blog entry including the picture of the Bottleneck and a line of climbers", "Photo taken by Sherpa Pemba Gyalje, of the situation around the Bottleneck in the morning of Aug 2", "Expedition photographs from the Dutch Norit K2 team", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=2008_K2_disaster&oldid=1014496454, Articles needing additional references from May 2016, All articles needing additional references, Short description is different from Wikidata, Articles with unsourced statements from September 2015, Articles needing additional references from July 2014, Articles with unsourced statements from January 2011, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, Fell while trying to recover Dren Mandić's corpse, Either the second serac fall or the third serac fall, Hit by either the second or third serac fall, after helping the injured Koreans, Marco Confortola authored a book in Italian, titled. ", "Day Sixty-three: SUMMIT PUSH- Summit Day; Tragedy Begins", "Nicholas Rice: K2 and Broad Peak Dispatch", "K2 report: Missing summit pics and no world records - turning the tables on Fredrik Strang", "K2: Fredrik Sträng's tale of Pakistani guide's fatal fall", "INTERVIEW-K2 survivor recounts fatal mistakes, numbed panic", "K2 Survivor Wilco van Rooijen, In His Own Words", "Day Sixty-six: SUMMIT PUSH– The Final Cost", "K2 2008: List of climbers who died released", "Day Sixty-eight: Wait for Porters Continues; Italians Evacuated", "More Are Feared Dead Near K2's Harsh Summit", "Death toll in climbing accident on K2 rises to 11", "XSAT USA plays role in recent K2 mountain rescue", "Scholarship memorial to Gerard -- the hero of K2", "Best of Adventure: Adventurers of the Year - They Did It (Fourteen people who dreamed big, pushed their limits, and made our year)", "90 hours in the 'death zone': One man's brave actions on an uncompromising mountain", "Best of Adventure: Adventurers of the Year - The savior and the storm on K2; Heroism: Pemba Gyalje Sherpa", "K2 north pillar SUMMITS! Ger McDonnell's family established a charity to sponsor the children of four HAPs who died on K2. [4] However, two climbers died on the way up to the top prior to the avalanche. Sport Alpinizm. Consequently, he survived the avalanche, as did Gyalje and Confortola at the bottom of the Bottleneck. Binnen een week tijd hebben we onze lieve honden Shih Tzu Bengie van bijna 17 en onze Berner Senne Boots van nog geen 6 in moeten laten slapen. The most dangerous section of the climb is the Bottleneck, a steep couloir overhung by seracs from the ice field east of the summit. Waarop wilt u filteren? Van Rooijen and others, such as McDonnell's partner Annie Starkey, believe this figure was Karim. "Big" Pasang Bhote later radioed Gyalje that he had met Jumik Bhote and two members of the Korean expedition just above the Bottleneck—apparently they were freed after all. What is certain is: only two Koreans were alive to encounter Pasang Bhote before the last serac fall. De tekst is beschikbaar onder de licentie. Sträng also noticed that Baig was incoherent, first offering to help in the rescue, later refusing to help, then returning moments later to assist them again. Wilco van Rooijen keerde na twee nachten in de 'dodenzone', het gebied boven de 8000 meter, in kamp 3 en daarna in het basiskamp terug. The High Altitude Porters (HAPs) and Sherpas started to prepare fixed lines before midnight.